This article addresses how to run two lights from one switch. This common question comes from a do-it-yourselfer working on his garage wiring who required some assistance wiring a circuit in his garage so that he could control two lights with one switch. Q: I am going to build a new garage and am planning my electrical wiring.
What I want to do is have both lights work off the same switch. From the second light to the next two plug boxes would I use 14 two wire cable again? This is where I am lost.
I would appreciate your assistance in helping me out, Thanks. A: The quick answer here is this. Confused yet? A picture is always worth a thousand words. Refer to the following diagram for a visual. To view it in full size — click on the diagram. Advertise With Us. This entry was posted in Wiring Projects and tagged boxcircuitcircuit wiringconductorDIY wiringdo-it-yourselfgarage wiringground wirehome electrical wiring diagramhouse wiring diagramlightlight boxlight fixtureoctagon boxoutletplugreceptacleswitchterminalswirewire diagramwiringwiring diagram.
Bookmark the permalink. Popular E-Book. Terry Peterman, the Internet Electrician. Switches Receptacles Lighting Outdoor.Wiring Two Lights To One Switch Diagram — wiring multiple lights to one switch diagram, wiring two lights to one switch diagram, wiring two lights to one switch diagram australia, Every electric arrangement consists of various diverse pieces.
Each component should be placed and connected with different parts in particular way. How does this diagram aid with circuit construction? The diagram offers visual representation of a electrical arrangement. However, this diagram is a simplified variant of this structure. This makes the process of building circuit easier.how to install a single pole switch
This diagram provides information of circuit components in addition to their own placements. The first component is emblem that indicate electrical component in the circuit. A circuit is usually composed by many components. Another thing which you will locate a circuit diagram would be lines. Lines in the diagram show how each component connects to one another.
The rankings of circuit parts are relative, not exact. The arrangement is also not plausible, unlike wiring schematics. Diagram only reveals where to place component at a place relative to other components inside the circuit.
One thing that you must learn before studying a circuit diagram is the symbols. Every symbol that is shown on the diagram shows specific circuit element. The most common components are capacitor, resistorbattery.
Additionally, there are other elements like ground, switch, motor, and inductor. It all depends on circuit that is being assembled. Occasionally, the cables will cross. But, it does not mean connection between the wires. Injunction of two wires is usually indicated by black dot at the junction of two lines.By code, the number of conductors allowed in a box are limited depending on box size and wire gauge.
Calculate total conductors allowed in a box before adding new wiring, etc. Check local regulations for restrictions and permit requirements before beginning electrical work.
The user of this information is responsible for following all applicable regulations and best practices when performing electrical work. If the user is unable to perform electrical work themselves, a qualified electrician should be consulted.
How to Read These Diagrams. The diagrams on this page illustrate connecting multiple lights in 3 way and 4 way switch circuits. Check below for more details about these circuits and some troubleshooting tips.
In this circuit, two light fixtures are shown but more can be added by duplicating the wiring arrangement between the fixtures for each additional light. Here the source is at the first switch, SW1, and 3-wire cable runs from there to the first light, L1. Two, 2-wire cables run between each light fixture after that and 3-wire cable runs from the last light to SW2. At the beginning of the circuit the hot source is connected to the common terminal on SW1.
The neutral is spliced to the white cable wire running to the lights and then spliced with a pigtail to the neutral terminal at L1. It is also spliced with the white wire running to the second light, L2. At L2 this white wire connects directly to the neutral terminal on the light fixture. If more lights are added, this wire would be spliced to the fixture and to the white wire running to the next light.
The travelers are run between the lights using the second cable black and white wires and at the last light, they are spliced to continue on to the traveler terminals on SW2.
They don't connect to the light fixtures at any point. The white traveler wire is wrapped with black tape to mark it as hot. This diagram illustrates another multiple light circuit controlled by 3 way switches. Here the source and the fixtures come before the switches. As with the other diagrams on this page, more lights can be added by duplicating the wiring arrangement between the fixtures. A 3-wire cable runs from L1 to L2 and 2-wire cable runs from there to the first switch.
A 3-wire cable runs between SW1 and SW2. The source hot is spliced to the black wire running between the lights and at the last light it is spliced to the black wire running through to the common on SW1, it does not connect to the light fixtures. The white wire is marked with black tape and spliced to the black wire running to the common terminal on SW2.
Back at the lights the source neutral is connected to the neutral terminal on L1 and spliced with the white wire running to the next fixture.
At each light it's connected to the neutral terminal with a pigtail and at the last light, directly to the fixture neutral. At SW1 the red and white wires from the 3-wire cable running between the switches function as the travelers with the white marked for hot using black tape or paint.
This drawing shows the wiring for multiple lights in a 4 way switch circuit with the source and fixtures coming before the switches. More lights can be added to this circuit by duplicating the wiring shown here for each additional fixture. Here 3-wire cable runs between L1 and L2, 2-wire cable runs from the last light to SW1, and more 3-wire cable runs from SW1 to the 4 way switch and then to SW2.
Wiring Two Lights To One Switch Diagram
At the lights the hot source is spliced to the black wire running between lights, it does not connect to the lights. At the last fixture it is spliced to the black wire running to the common on SW1.
The neutral from the source is connected to each light fixture with a pigtail and to the neutral running to the next light. At the last light the source neutral is connected directly to the fixture neutral terminal. The red wire between the lights is connected directly to the hot on L1 and then run to the next light.
If there are more than 2 lights, the red is pigtailed to the fixture hot and to the red wire running on to the next light. With 2 lights, it is spliced with the white wire running to the switches. This white wire is wrapped with black tape to mark it as hot.Please Note: To illustrate the wiring of these switches, Switch Boxes and Fixture Boxes are not shown but are obviously required for every application.
These diagrams are shown as using the Romex wiring method. These Romex cables contain a ground conductor which is required for all applications as well. The ground conductors are always bonded together to insure the integrity of the ground path.
If you are using metal boxes, the ground conductor must be attached to each box by using a threaded ground screw or provided attachment. The frames of the switches which have a ground screw are to be attached to the ground conductor as required.
Explanation of Wiring Diagram 1. Question: Your example shows 2 wire Romex but most Romex I have seen has three wires one white-one black and an un-shrouded copper ground wire. What is the correct connection for this ground wire? Answer: As explained in this page above: These Type-NM cables contain a ground conductor which is required for all applications as well. I have an existing light switch, and I want to add a second switch for a new light that will be operated separately.
The power comes into the switch which operates a single light at the end of the circuit. Is there a simple way to do this or should I get an electrician? The task of installing additional wiring for a light switch and new light fixture will depend on available access to the proposed location.
Hiring a qualified electrician will ensure that the installation is performed correctly where the existing circuit wires will be identified, and new circuit wiring will be extended to the new light switch and then out to the new light fixture. Special attention will be given to the existing circuit capacity, the wire type and size, as well as making sure the additional wiring is protected and installed according to all the electrical codes that will apply.
Question from Denny, a Handyman in Sudbury Ontario Canada, Canada: How do I close off an existing light and add two new lights off of the existing light switch? I have a single light on a single switch in my kitchen ceiling. I want to close off the existing light and run two new lights off of the existing light box.
It is not far from the existing light, so will I need to run wire from existing box to the two new boxes.
How do I close it off? The easiest way to add new light fixtures is to run the new wiring to the existing light fixture, splice the wires together as the old fixture was connected and then place a decorative blank cover over the fixture box.
Arlington makes a white blank fixture box cover that works very well for this type of application. If you would like to remove the light fixture box, and there is access to the attic area then the fixture box could be removed, and the wiring installed into a new junction box located in an accessible location where the new wiring for the additional light fixtures may be connected.
The new junction box must be securely mounted and an blank cover must be installed after all the wiring connections have been completed. Question from Rob, a Homeowner in Ottawa Canada: I have what I am sure is a simple question, but I want to be sure as the new light switches I want to install are expensive digital switches.
The new switches are obviously meant to be 3-way as they have a Red wire in addition to Black, White, Green. The old switches are not 3-way though and the electrical box they are in does not even have RED wires.
The one old switch is the only switch controlling one light, while the other old switch is the only switch controlling three other lights.
My guess would be that I just cap off the Red wires from the new switches as they are not needed, but I do want to be sure. You are correct, when s new switch will not be used as a 3-way switch the Red wire is capped off with a small wire connector or electrical tape. Question: Can one single pole switch control another single pole switch? Dennis from Denver, Colorado asks: Under the International Electrical Code, is it permissible for one single pole switch to control another single pole switch?
Answer: Two single pole switches controlling each other and a light fixture would not function correctly therefore technically it would not be compliant with electrical codes.
In a situation such as this you should consider the option of installing a matched pair of Master and Slave switches which will act just like two three way switches.
How to Wire Two Light Switches With One Power Supply
This type of switch may be found at most hardware stores or electrical supply distributor. Ask a Question!It is not uncommon for a circuit to be configured so that two wall switches in a single double-gang box control two different light fixtures. The essence of the wiring configuration is for one hot feed wire entering the switch box to be split so that it feeds both switches, which in turn feed hot wires in cables that lead out to two separate light fixtures.
However, the actual look of the wiring in the box can vary, depending on where the switches are located along the circuit run. Wiring new circuits from scratch or extending circuits is a complicated business that requires some understanding of electrical wiring.
It is not typically a job for homeowners unless they are skilled and knowledgeable. What's described here is only an overview of the process. If you do attempt to do this yourself, here are some of the skills and experience you will need to do it:.
This overview describes in very basic terms what the wiring looks like in the simplest installation — where the circuit cable first reaches the switch box, then feeds out from there to separate light fixtures "downstream" from the switch box. The assumption here is that a circuit is being extended from an existing source, such as a receptacle outlet, to feed a double switch that will control two different light fixtures.
Turn off the power to the circuit you'll be working on by flipping the reset lever on the circuit breaker to the OFF position at the main service panel. Check to make sure power is off by using a circuit tester. If you are using a non-contact tester, make sure it is operating correctly by first testing it on an outlet you know is live. When you are sure it's functioning correctly, test the receptacle outlet where you'll be extending the circuit to make sure the power is off. If you are extending a circuit from an existing receptacle outlet to power light fixtures wired through a double switch box, you will need to install a double switch box, then run NM cables from the feed outlet location to the switch box.
Then you'll run additional cables from the switch box to wherever the light fixtures are located. In the example shown here, the box and cables are laid out on a work surface so you can clearly see the wiring configuration. Run circuit extension cables from the new switch box to the light fixture locations; strip the sheathing as needed, and insert them into the wall box, as shown in this tabletop example.
In the example, the cable at the bottom is the feed cable entering the box "upstream" from the power source, and the two top cables will continue on "downstream" to the separate light fixtures. You will have a total of three cables entering the box — one feed cable, and two cables leading to separate light fixture locations.
On each of the two single-pole switches, install a hot wire pigtail and a ground wire pigtail that will be used to attach the switches to the wires from the feed cable. Gather together all the bare copper ground wires and join them together with a wire connector.
There will be a total of six wires — two pigtail wires attached to the switches, and three circuit ground wires, one for each cable entering the box. For convenience, use a green wire connector to make this connection. Although not required by Code, the green color is a convention used by electricians to identify the connection as a ground. Join the two black pigtails and the black hot wire from the feed cable together with a wire connector.
The example uses a push-fit connector, a newer style of connector that has excellent holding power. You could also make this connection with a traditional twist wire nut. There is one remaining screw terminal on the side of each switch.
Connect one of the black wires running from a light fixture cable to each of these screws. Form a C-shaped loop in the stripped end of the wire; wrap it clockwise around the screw terminal, and tighten securely. The hot-wire pathway is now complete, from power source cable, through the switches and on to the light fixture locations.
Now use a wire connector either a push-fit connector or a twist wire nut to join together the white neutral wires from each of the three cables. Note that there is no neutral connection directly to the switches. This is because switches operate along hot current pathways only, and don't require a neutral connection.
The neutrals simply "pass through" a switch box. Very carefully tuck the connected wires into the switch box, and then press the switches into the box and secure them by attaching the mounting screws. Attach the switch cover plate. Connect the new circuit extension wires to the receptacle.
In the example, this is easy because there are available screws on the receptacle. Just attach the wires from the circuit extension cable to the available screws — black wire to the darker screw terminal, white wire to the silver-colored screw terminal.By code, the number of conductors allowed in a box are limited depending on box size and wire gauge.
Calculate total conductors allowed in a box before adding new wiring, etc. Check local regulations for restrictions and permit requirements before beginning electrical work.
The user of this information is responsible for following all applicable regulations and best practices when performing electrical work. If the user is unable to perform electrical work themselves, a qualified electrician should be consulted. How to Read These Diagrams. This page contains wiring diagrams for household light switches and includes: a switch loop, single-pole switches, light dimmer, and a few choices for wiring a outlet switch combo device.
Light Switch Wiring Diagrams
Also included are wiring arrangements for multiple light fixtures controlled by one switch, two switches on one box, and a split receptacle controlled by two switches. When the electrical source originates at a light fixture and is controlled from a remote location, a switch loop is used. This circuit is wired with a 2-wire cable running from the light to the switch location.
The neutral from the source is connected directly to the neutral terminal on the light and the source hot is spliced with the white loop wire.
The white wire is marked black on both ends to identify it as hot. At SW1 it is connected to one of the terminals. The black loop wire is connected to the other terminal and at the light, to the hot terminal on the fixture. This is an updated version of the first arrangement. Because the electrical code as of the NEC update requires a neutral wire in most new switch boxes, a 3-wire cable runs between the light and switch.
The red and black are used for hot and the white neutral wire at the switch box allows for powering a timer, remote control, or other programmable switch. Here a single-pole switch controls the power to a light fixture. The source is at the switch and 2-wire cable runs from there to the light.
How To Wire For Two Light Switches
The source hot wire is connected to a switch terminal and the other terminal is connected to the black cable wire. The neutral wire from the source is spliced to the white cable wire and continues on to the light. At the light, the white wire connects to the neutral terminal and the black wire connects to the hot. Here two switches are wired in the same box to control two separate lights. The source is at the switch box and a 2-wire cable is run to each light.
One source is spliced to each switch with a pigtail to power the two lights. This diagram illustrates wiring for one switch to control 2 or more lights. The source is at SW1 and 2-wire cable runs from there to the fixtures.
The hot and neutral terminals on each fixture are spliced with a pigtail to the circuit wires which then continue on to the next light. This is the simplest arrangement for more than one light on a single switch.It isn't unusual to wire two or more light and switch combinations from the same power source -- in fact, it's common practice.
Typically, the source is a circuit breaker in the main electrical panel that has a rating large enough to handle the lights. It's possible to mount the switches in the same or in different electrical boxes, but the latter case involves the extra task of running a circuit cable between the boxes. You maintain the continuity of the hot wire in the circuit cable by forming pigtails at the points where it connects to the switches.
Install appropriate electrical boxes for the lights and switches. You can mount the switches side-by-side in a double-gang electrical box or in different locations, each in a single-gang box. For each fixture and switch you have the choice of nailing a rough-in box to a stud or rafter or mounting a remodeling box on the drywall. Run gauge electrical cable between each switch and the light it controls. Pull one end of each cable through the back of one of the light fixture electrical boxes.
Connect the light fixtures by wiring their black wires to the black cable wire, their white wires to the white cable wire and their ground wires to the bare cable wire. Twist wires that you're joining together with pliers and screw a wire cap onto each set. Pull the other end of each cable through the back of the electrical box for the switch that controls it, then strip the end of the cable with a knife and separate the wires.
Pull a gauge cable from the power source, making sure that the power is off and the cable is dead. Feed it through the back of one of the switch boxes and strip the wires.
Run a second gauge cable from the first switch to the second one and strip the wires on both ends.
If you've mounted the switches in the same electrical box, you can omit this step. Slice open a spare length of cable that is 6 inches long with a utility knife and remove the black and bare wires.
If you've mounted two switches in the same electrical box, prepare two black wires. Connect one end of the 6-inch wire to the top terminal of the first switch. Twist the other end together with the black wire from the incoming circuit cable and the black wire from the cable going to the second switch to form a pigtail. Twist a wire cap onto the end of the pigtail. Use the other 6-inch wire to connect to the top terminal of the second switch if it is mounted in the same electrical box.
In this case, there will be three black wires forming the pigtail: two 6-inch wires coming from the switches and one circuit wire. Form a similar pigtail with the ground wires. Connect the 6-inch length of wire to the green ground terminal. Twist the other end together with the ends of the three bare wires in the box.